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See also:  Electrical Wiring Guide Illustrated HERE:


Step 13. Switch Mounting and Wiring.

(Figure 59)

While it is possible to do this part also back where we were mounting the base plate, I like to make sure that things are lined up before I make additional holes.  If you have short screws you don’t need to do this at all.  If you are using the tubular mount, you can skip this part also.  Use a pencil and mark the locations of the switchbox holes. (Figure 59).

(Figure 60)

(Figure 61)

Remove your mount plate, center punch, and drill your holes for the switchbox, and reassemble.  Sorry for this extra disassembly/reassembly.  I tend to work in stages to prevent mistakes. (Figure 60 & 61).

(Figure 62)

(Figure 63)

Screw down the switchbox with screws (Figure 62 & 63)

(Figure 64)

Knock out the hole closest to the motor, its a bit tough, beat on it with a screwdriver.  Use pliers or your fingers to wiggle out the insert. (Figure 64)







(Figure 65)

Strip both ends of two pieces of approx 6″ wire, Set them aside for now.

(Figure 65)

(Figure 66)

Strip the motor wires so that you have a good 1/2″ of wire or so. (Figure 66)

(Figure 67)

Insert a wire connector onto one end of each of your 6″ wires. (Figure 67)

(Figure 68)

Crimp it down. (Figure 68)

(Figure 69)

Insert the end of the motor wire into the other side of the wire connector and crimp down. (Figure 69 & 70)

(Figure 70)

(Figure 71)

So all we’ve really done here is make the motor wires longer. (Figure 71)

(Figure 72)

Get your 3 pronged power cord and both of the motor wires (now extended) and insert them through the threaded bracket that will attach to the switchbox. (Figure 72)

(Figure 73)

Insert the threaded bracket into the switchbox. (Figure 73)

(Figure 74)

Insert the threaded collar onto the bracket on the inside of the switchbox to hold the bracket in the switchbox. (Figure 74)

(Figure 75)

This is what the switchbox and brackets should look like now. (Figure 75)

(Figure 76)

The top bracket goes on the outside and screws down into the threaded bracket to hold the wires tight. (Figure 76)

(Figure 77)

Here’s what it should look like now. (Figure 77)

(Figure 78)

Get your switch ready, it should have double connectors on the grill side and a single ground connector on the outside. (Figure 78)

(Figure 79)

Connect one 6″ wire to one connector. (Figure 79)

(Figure 80)

screw it down tight, pinning the wire under the screw. (Figure 80)

(Figure 81)

Take the black wire from the power cord and connect to the other connector . (Figure 81)

(Figure 82)

Screw down tight. (Figure 82)

(Figure 83)

Attach the ground wire (the green one) from the power plug to the single terminal on the other side of the switch and screw down tight. (Figure 83 & 84)

(Figure 84)

(Figure 85)

Connect the remaining 6″ wire from the motor, and the white wire from the power cord together with another wire connector or the screw connector type connectors.  I will use a blue wire connector. (Figure 85)

(Figure 86)

Crimp both ends. (Figures 86, 87, 88, 89)

(Figure 87)

(Figure 88)

(Figure 89)

(Figure 90)

Screw it down to the switchbox. (Figure 90)

(Figure 91)

That’s what it should look like before we cover it up. (Figure 91)

(Figure 92)

Plug it in and throw the switch, the motor should spin.  If you blow a breaker or if something doesn’t work, you need to go back and inspect your wiring. (Figure 92)

(Figure 93)

Hooray!  It runs!, motor turns, drum turns. (Figure 93)

(Figure 94)

Lets button her up.  Screw down the plate onto the switch (UNPLUG IT FIRST). (Figure 94)

OK!  So that’s it, you can technically roast now!  If you’re grill does not have a built in thermometer or you purchased a thermometer, move on to section I.  Thermometer installation.  After this section is the final walkthrough, sheet metal customization and enhancements, and first firing.