[widgetkit id=”38″ name=”Buzzy Electro”]
See also: Electrical Wiring Guide Illustrated HERE:
H. ELECTRICAL & SWITCH WIRING
Step 13. Switch Mounting and Wiring.
While it is possible to do this part also back where we were mounting the base plate, I like to make sure that things are lined up before I make additional holes. If you have short screws you don’t need to do this at all. If you are using the tubular mount, you can skip this part also. Use a pencil and mark the locations of the switchbox holes. (Figure 59).
Remove your mount plate, center punch, and drill your holes for the switchbox, and reassemble. Sorry for this extra disassembly/reassembly. I tend to work in stages to prevent mistakes. (Figure 60 & 61).
Screw down the switchbox with screws (Figure 62 & 63)
Knock out the hole closest to the motor, its a bit tough, beat on it with a screwdriver. Use pliers or your fingers to wiggle out the insert. (Figure 64)
MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT HAVE ANYTHING
PLUGGED INTO THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET AT THIS STAGE.
UNPLUG IT NOW!!!!
Strip both ends of two pieces of approx 6″ wire, Set them aside for now.
Strip the motor wires so that you have a good 1/2″ of wire or so. (Figure 66)
Insert a wire connector onto one end of each of your 6″ wires. (Figure 67)
Crimp it down. (Figure 68)
Insert the end of the motor wire into the other side of the wire connector and crimp down. (Figure 69 & 70)
So all we’ve really done here is make the motor wires longer. (Figure 71)
Get your 3 pronged power cord and both of the motor wires (now extended) and insert them through the threaded bracket that will attach to the switchbox. (Figure 72)
Insert the threaded bracket into the switchbox. (Figure 73)
Insert the threaded collar onto the bracket on the inside of the switchbox to hold the bracket in the switchbox. (Figure 74)
This is what the switchbox and brackets should look like now. (Figure 75)
The top bracket goes on the outside and screws down into the threaded bracket to hold the wires tight. (Figure 76)
Here’s what it should look like now. (Figure 77)
Get your switch ready, it should have double connectors on the grill side and a single ground connector on the outside. (Figure 78)
Connect one 6″ wire to one connector. (Figure 79)
screw it down tight, pinning the wire under the screw. (Figure 80)
Take the black wire from the power cord and connect to the other connector . (Figure 81)
Screw down tight. (Figure 82)
Attach the ground wire (the green one) from the power plug to the single terminal on the other side of the switch and screw down tight. (Figure 83 & 84)
Connect the remaining 6″ wire from the motor, and the white wire from the power cord together with another wire connector or the screw connector type connectors. I will use a blue wire connector. (Figure 85)
Crimp both ends. (Figures 86, 87, 88, 89)
Screw it down to the switchbox. (Figure 90)
That’s what it should look like before we cover it up. (Figure 91)
Plug it in and throw the switch, the motor should spin. If you blow a breaker or if something doesn’t work, you need to go back and inspect your wiring. (Figure 92)
Hooray! It runs!, motor turns, drum turns. (Figure 93)
Lets button her up. Screw down the plate onto the switch (UNPLUG IT FIRST). (Figure 94)
OK! So that’s it, you can technically roast now! If you’re grill does not have a built in thermometer or you purchased a thermometer, move on to section I. Thermometer installation. After this section is the final walkthrough, sheet metal customization and enhancements, and first firing.